In the third installment of our French road trip series, we delve into the enchanting region of Provence. Having journeyed from Calais to the south coast of France in previous segments, we had already encountered some of the most spectacular natural wonders and historic towns. Now, it was time to immerse ourselves in the picturesque landscapes and charming towns of Provence.
Fontaine-de-Vaucluse was our first stop in Provence. This village is renowned for its spring, one of the largest in the world, which feeds the river that gracefully flows through the narrow valley into the village. Despite arriving to find the spring reduced to what looked more like a puddle, the river continued to flow beautifully. The crystal-clear water allowed us to observe the vibrant green reeds moving gracefully beneath the surface. Although swimming is not permitted, we couldn’t resist dipping our feet in the refreshing water after enjoying a delightful breakfast at one of the riverside cafes. We spent a leisurely day exploring Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, reading our books, and savouring the tranquil atmosphere before heading to our next destination.
Our next highlight was Senanque Abbey, which we arrived at just as the sun was setting. This strategic timing allowed us to avoid the usual crowds and enjoy the abbey’s serene beauty. We parked our van, Helm’s Deep, near a lavender field just a few minutes from the abbey. Waking up early to witness the abbey bathed in the morning light was an unforgettable experience. The striking contrast between the abbey’s white stone, the lush green hills, and the purple lavender fields created a breathtaking scene. The lavender’s scent and the morning haze added a magical touch to the experience, making Senanque Abbey a must-visit destination in Provence.
Just a short drive from Senanque Abbey, we visited Gordes for breakfast. This magnificent stone village, perched on a cliff, offers sweeping views of the surrounding countryside. Fun fact: The locals are called Gordiens. Although we initially planned to spend the entire day in Gordes, we decided to explore the nearby town of Roussillon. Roussillon’s vibrant ochre-coloured rock and buildings painted in shades of red, orange, and yellow made it one of my favourite towns in Europe. The narrow streets and green foliage contrasted beautifully with the warm-coloured walls. We wandered through the charming streets, admired the historic buildings, and made our way to the main courtyard and lookout point, where we were rewarded with stunning panoramic views.
In retrospect, Roussillon might have offered a more romantic and authentic setting for dinner than Gordes. Nevertheless, with a couple of hours to spare, we relaxed on a quiet road between Roussillon and Gordes, enjoying French Galettes—savory crepes filled with cheese and other delicious ingredients. Our trip had been moving at a fast pace, which is our preferred method of travel for experiencing as much as possible. However, it was nice to pause, read a book, and savor the moment. This peaceful interlude was interrupted when I helped a lost British couple find their holiday home. After this detour, we returned to Gordes for a final dinner before continuing our journey.
Our route north through France was designed to enhance our Provence experience by avoiding major roads. We took the scenic D230 and D943, renowned for their picturesque lavender fields. During a search for fuel, we stumbled upon a fantastic French market where we bought a fleece and an old coffee grinder. Additionally, a bakery owner generously gave us pastries she was about to discard.
Despite feeling incredibly fortunate, we faced a challenging situation when we ran low on fuel and had to navigate rolling hills, which caused our van to overheat. After pulling over to let the engine cool down, we finally reached a fuel station and replenished our supply. With order restored, we returned to the lavender fields, now able to fully appreciate their serene beauty. The fields stretched out across the countryside, their intoxicating scent and the sight of butterflies and bees added to the peaceful experience. We took a few moments to breathe deeply and embrace the stunning surroundings.
The drive north was much easier compared to our southward journey, which had involved steep, winding roads and tolls. The northern route showcased some of the most breathtaking countryside I’ve ever seen, and I felt no need to use the toll roads. The journey was delightful, and each new place we passed made me eager to plan our next road trip.
With exceptional scenery and an engaging audiobook, we reached Calais with plenty of time to spare. We drove through most of the night, stopping briefly at our first Aire for convenience. The next day, after stocking up on wine, we headed for the ferry terminal. Our early arrival allowed us to catch an earlier crossing, and we made it back home to Dorset at a reasonable time.
Reflecting on our two-week road trip, we spent £528.91 on fuel, £80.46 on tolls, £486.20 on food (both cooking in the van and dining out), and £142 on the ferry crossing (partially covered by Clubcard points). In total, the trip cost £1237.57, or £618.79 per person. This is a remarkable value for a two-week adventure through some of France’s most picturesque locations.